Herz-Ass Villgratental - The story

The story of how it all began: My friend Alois Mayr and I, as ground crew and observers in the valley, followed the pair's journey at wintry heights. There was no technical connection from above to the valley below, but there was a spiritual one from below and vice versa. It took a lot of persuasion and some presentations to obtain permission to describe this adventurous ascent in a vivid documentary. Precisely for this reason, the possibility and feasibility of this route should not be withheld from other mountaineering friends and, with best wishes for repeats, should be presented to a wider circle of mountaineers. Here, an innocent mountain hiker describes an exciting ascent of two companions from the perspective of the 'ground crew', supported by small details that they sparingly elicited.

On December 24, 1988, Lois drove Norbert and Konrad to Astrane, below the Tessenberger Almrast. Good luck on the way! The car turned around, the headlights directed downhill, and disappeared into the night. It was 1:00 a.m. – a long, long way lay before them: as the crow flies, it was a good 50 km, the terrain was estimated at about 100 km, and the elevation gain on the ascent alone was about 5,500 m. Heavy luggage weighed on their shoulders – about 25 kg each. They planned five to seven days at an altitude of 2,200 to 3,000 m on the icy ridge, with only one bivouac night less than the days they might have. No fewer than at least 50 notable peaks on this long circular tour, and perhaps many times more unnamed peaks, storks, and heights, lay along their route.

On the afternoon of Christmas Eve, Lois took up position on the Vesellerberg below Hühnerspiel and scanned the ridge with his telescope. He finally spotted them at the Hoher Schartl – a considerable distance already behind them. We expected them to advance well into Regenstein the next day. How might they be celebrating Christmas on the mountain? Best wishes and Christmas greetings from the valley to the wintry heights! Just after noon the next day, Lois was back on post at the Gliefenalm, where he had a good view of the ridge. After a long, fruitless search, he spotted them on the Grosser Arnhorn, where they were resting on a snow band. In the late afternoon, we searched together from the Uichat on the Thuntaler for any movement on the mountain toward Regenstein. Without success, we had to return home – we suspected that things up there would be some difficulties.

Early the next day, I'm out and about, trying to spot my friends on the mountain from the Mooshofalm. I can see the ridge, starting at the Arnhörner, all the way to the Marcheggenspitze. I try once, twice, many times, but always in vain. Now I have to go to Holy Mass in Kalkstein and plan to look again later. At 11:45 a.m., I arrive back and point the telescope up at the shining white ridge. I see two figures on the ridge below the Marcheggenspitze, climbing rapidly upwards and soon disappearing from my sight. When I meet up with Lois in the afternoon, I happily tell him about my observation. We then drive as far as possible into the Winkeltal and hike into the valley. Just above the Lackenkammern, Lois spots our comrades on the mountain. They've reached the Hochwand and are descending to the Gsaritzer Törl. Satisfied, we return home. From now on, Lois will take over observation from the valley alone. From this side, the most difficult time has come for him, as he can't see the ridge all the way to the Degenhorn. We hope, however, that they can reach this goal tomorrow. By 2:00 the next afternoon, they've already reached the Storfenspitze and are struggling westward along the ridge, as Lois can observe from the Waschstein. As dusk falls that same day, they're in the Schötterlenke and will probably have to move into the next icy bivouac. Thursday, December 28, 1988, at 9:30 a.m. - from the Schachlerhof, we see two people climbing up toward the Villgrater Törl. Then we can't see them anywhere, even though Lois is still on the way; at 7:00 p.m., we discuss things. We can only hope that everything went well and that they moved on.

In the evening, I look at the endless path on the map and imagine the possibilities. Suddenly, I can see the entire path, and the name 'Ace of Hearts Villgraten' is born in my mind. This name springs to mind at the sight of this heart-shaped ridge, which encloses a unique valley over countless mountains. Late that evening, at home, full of confidence, I write down my companions' stops on the mountain for the day: Rote Spitze, Wangeslenke, Gschritt, Plattetörl, Villgrater Törl, Pfannspitze, Hellöden, Vorder- and Hintere Gsieser Lenke, Riepenspitze, Heimwald, Heimwaldjöchl, Rotlahner, Eggenberger Riegel, Kalksteiner Riegel - although my distance measurements on the map tell me that it's humanly impossible for them to have gotten that far, I still confidently obey an inner voice. Even if everything I so imaginatively concocted on that December 28th of last year is true, they would have to perform a feat of force if they wanted to achieve their goal the next day. Early the next day, I was delighted to see my wildest expectations exceeded. At 5:29 p.m., Lois reported that they had reached the top of the guys and were in all likelihood likely to make it.

And now events are happening very quickly – I’m almost falling behind with my notes. In the meantime, Hans has also joined the ‘ground crew’ and is fully involved, with his comrades below and above! At 11:00 a.m. the phone rings. Lois reports from the Hochberg vantage point that Norbert and Konrad have reached the Pfannhorn and have apparently smelled beer at the Thurntaler Rast. Their speed is increasing, not decreasing. We expect them to arrive at the Thurntaler Rast after dark. At 2:45 a.m. Lois is back on the phone and tells us that he saw the two of them between Hochrast and Thurntaler, and that they can no longer be prevented from reaching their destination. We have planned a friendly reception at the Thuntaler Rast and must hurry. I quickly finish the short documentation and am picked up by Lois at 3:30 p.m. After a welcome drink, we set off for the Thuntaler. Lois has to sign the notes of the observers in the valley in the car, and then we'll wait for them at the Thurntaler Rast. There, they sit serenely with a beer and welcome us. Outwardly, there's little sign of the extraordinary exertions they've endured—only their eyes glow with a striking fire, silent, meaningful, telling tales of sunny heights, endless expanses, and the wonders they've experienced.

For me, they speak volumes, even if their comments don't reveal much. But I can report this much: It's not a given that they're sitting here today in good health, that there were many difficult situations, that the success of such an undertaking depends on the partner you entrust your life to, that they complemented each other in every way, that camaraderie on the mountain also includes accepting your partner's weaknesses and mistakes, that the human side is still the best way to overcome difficulties, and that God guided their path with a protective hand. Being able to experience and 'be there from a distance' on this long-distance tour of the Asses of Hearts in Villgraten prompted me to write down this story and make it accessible to others.

The Villgraten Mountains aren't world-class mountains, yet they're still a great place for expeditions. We look forward to more ascents of this circular route around our home valley and, if desired, we'd be happy to share the experience and struggles with others as observers in the valley.

Good luck and good health to all successors!